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Got Compost? Top 5 FAQs on making compost in your yard

Composting expert Paul Paddock on 5 common composting questions.

 



Tried composting and failed? Wound up with bears instead of garden food? We asked Paul Paddock, a partner in Sonoma Compost, to give us the low-down on some common composting concerns.

Q. I want to compost. Should I use a container?

A. There are several reasons to consider the use of a container:

  • In regions with significant rainfall, a container can prevent compost from becoming saturated. When compost becomes waterlogged, the process can slow down or stop - causing the materials to become anaerobic and generate unpleasant odors.

  • Containers can help small compost piles retain heat in really cold regions.

  • Containers can help confine your compost pile to a specific part of your yard.

  • Some containers are designed to make it easy to turn the organic matter as it composts.

  • Containers can help discourage rodents or small animals from grazing on your composting scraps.


Q. What are the ingredients of great compost?

A. When composting yard trimmings, the proper blend of carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials is important. Technically, a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of 30-to-1 is a good place to start. An easy way to achieve such a mix is to blend roughly equal parts of carbon-rich brown materials such as dead leaves, straw, sawdust or chipped branches with green materials such as grass or recent prunings of green foliage from your garden..


Q. What are the most common problems I may encounter, and how do I address them?

A. The five primary causes of backyard composting problems are:


1. Improper blend of materials. Efficient composting requires the correct ratio of carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials. In the summer, compost piles often contain too much freshly-cut green grass, resulting in an anaerobic goo that's neither pleasant or likely to compost. A fall blend of too many dead leaves can result in a pile that's carbon-rich and nitrogen-deficient. These problems are easily adjusted by adding more of the needed carbon or nitrogen material.

2. Improper particle size. Large, woody branches will not readily decompose. On the other hand, if everything in your compost recipe is ground or chipped to a very small size, your pile will settle tightly on itself as it decomposes and will lack the porosity that allows oxygen to reach the interior of your pile. The composting process will often slow down or halt. Strive for an average particle size of between 1 and 2 inches.

3. Improper moisture content. Organic materials generally compost most efficiently in a moisture range of 50 to 60 percent. A good rule of thumb is to keep your pile moist enough so it glistens, but isn't dripping wet.

4. Lack of oxygen. The decomposing microorganisms that are consuming, digesting and metabolizing your organic blend are living creatures that need oxygen to survive. Provide them with a pile of organic matter porous enough to allow air to move into the sides of the pile during the heating process. And don't forget to turn your pile when it begins to cool. This ensures an adequately oxygenated pile.

5. Inadequate pile mass. To keep an aerobic compost pile at optimum composting temperatures requires a pile with enough mass to heat up and stay warm through the night and during cooler seasons. Typically, in a backyard, a pile at least one cubic yard (3' X 3' X3') in size will be sufficient.


Q. How often should compost be turned?

A. When temperatures go below 120 degrees, it's generally time to turn the pile. Monitor pile temperatures with a 24-inch thermometer (available through garden supply sellers), and follow the directions that accompany commercial composters.

If you create your pile with the right C/N ratio, keep moisture content optimal and have enough organic mass, your pile should rapidly reach temperatures in the 140- to 150-degree Fahrenheit range. These temperatures should be maintained for several days to a couple of weeks, depending on pile size.

Be sure to turn the pile so that the outside ends up on the interior, ensuring that all parts of the pile are exposed to the heat of the process. Commercial composters generally maintain temperatures over 131 degrees F. for at least 15 days to make sure any plant diseases are no longer viable.


Q. What's a rough monthly guide for preparing compost to be ready for spring gardening?

A. This is entirely dependent upon the care with which the pile is constructed and maintained. It's possible to get fairly finished compost in three to four weeks with the right blend, proper moisture and turning the pile every day or two. Most backyard gardeners find they get better compost and enjoy the process more if they take a leisurely, philosophical approach to their efforts.

The fact is, nature is composting plant life all around us at a pace that's often measured in seasons rather than weeks. And the compost that results is as good as it gets. So I suggest tuning in to the natural rhythms of your garden and compost pile-and appreciate that fine compost, like fine wine, may take a little longer but is well worth the wait.



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Community Voice

 
A coworker here at Gaiam who composts pointed out that you don't necessarily have to USE the compost. I had said I didn't have a garden and wasn't sure I could use it up, but he said he doesn't really use his much either -- but the pile doesn't get out of hand because it decomposes and absorbs into the ground. Has anyone else had experience with this?
BlueSky,
Jan 25, 2007 12:36:49 PM




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